Birkenstock: How the German sandal became cult

Birkenstock sandals have long sparked derision. Years ago, these eco-friendly, ergonomic sandals were seen as practical but not fashionable. German tourists wearing them abroad were often ridiculed. Today, Birkenstock is setting records in sales, not just in Germany but globally.

The iconic Birkenstock sandals also made a star apparition in Greta Gerwig's hit movie "Barbie," when Stereotypical Barbie (Margot Robbie) ditches her high heels for a pair of brown Birkenstocks to explore the "real world" beyond Barbieland. The scene gave an incredible boost to the sales of Birkenstock sandals.

The German company that produces Birkenstocks is more than 200 years old, tracing its roots to the skilled shoemaker Johann Adam Birkenstock, who founded the company in 1774. The shoe manufacturer had a pivotal moment when Konrad Birkenstock invented the first contoured insole in 1897. But it would take a while for the shoe to gain in popularity.

The turning point arrived through his grandson, Karl Birkenstock. In 1963, he began selling an orthopedic sandal that prioritized functionality and high quality over aesthetics. Healthcare professionals made up the main market for the shoe, which then found a home in clinics and doctors' offices.

After the German-American Margot Fraser discovered the shoe during a stay in Germany in 1966, she set up distribution in the USA from California. From the 1970s onwards, hippies adopted the sandals. The clunky Birkenstocks became a symbol of counterculture and non-conformism.

The German shoes were also immortalized in a punk song. In 1994, US punk rock band NOFX released "Jeff Wears Birkenstocks," which refers to Jeff Abarta, who wore the sandals as an intern for the band's label. NOFX frontman Fat Mike wrote the song to tease Jeff about his "hippie sandals," which he felt had no place in punk rock.

Apple founder Steve Jobs was an early Birkenstock fan. The late businessman's worn-out sandals — the Arizona model — went under the hammer at an auction in 2022, fetching nearly $220,000 (€207,000).

Since the 1990s, Birkenstock has increasingly established itself in the fashion world. Partnerships with luxury brands like Dior, Rick Owens and Valentino contributed to the image change. A picture of supermodel Kate Moss wearing them in a carefree style also turned the sandals into a fashion statement. Heidi Klum designed her own Birkenstock collection in 2003 (photo).

At the beginning of 2021, L Catterton, a private investment company in which Bernard Arnault and his luxury conglomerate LVMH also hold shares, took a stake in Birkenstock. The value of Birkenstock was estimated at around €4 billion at the time.

Experts estimate the value of the initial public offering at more than €8 billion. This is likely to change a few things, such as the ownership structure of the family business. What will remain, however, is the manufacturer's home in Germany, where 95% of production takes place.