XS vs M

Photographer Boris Krahl clicks away with his camera as model Leonie pulls her hair back, smiles seductively or strikes a cool pose. Leonie is wearing a brown bikini and high-heeled shoes, which make the slender 180-centimeter ( 5'9") model an extra 10 centimeters taller.

"Every few weeks, we take Polaroid pictures of the models so that we are up-to-date on the state of their skin, hair and weight since our clients always want to see instant pictures, in addition to their Sedcards, so they get an idea of what they look like without makeup."

Krahl has been a fashion photographer for the Berlin-based modeling agency Viva for the past seven years. Fashion Week is the busiest time, with designers calling up all the time, portfolios having to be sent out, and models running off to castings. Leonie is also hoping to walk the runway - it would be the 16-year-old's third fashion show.

"Somone spotted me on the street," Leonie said, recalling how she got started in the modeling business. "I had never thought about doing it before, and I wouldn't do it as my main job."

The teenager said that she intends to finish school and go to college, but can imagine modeling on the side.

That extra "something"

Anyone can apply as a model at Viva, but most are turned down. Photographers discover fascinating faces elsewhere, Krahl noted.

"I discovered a boy last year in the tram, on my way to work," he said. "I watched him, the way he stood, sat. And I saw what a great face he had."

Krahl approached the boy and asked him if he was interested in stopping by the modeling agency.

"One month later, he was on the catwalks in Paris, and has done all the shows in Milan - for everyone from Dolce and Gabana to Gucci," Krahl said.

Models who are just skin and bones are not what Viva is after - and they're now following a trend that women's magazine Brigitte helped to define. Brigitte now uses more "real" women with more flesh rather than professional models. Still, model Leonie, who wears a size 34 (US misses size 4), doesn't believe much will change in the modeling world.

"On the one hand, I think it's great when normal women who do not wear size 34 can wear these clothes - and that it looks nice on them," she said. "On the other hand, I like looking at these beautiful, tall, slender girls."

And that type of woman will likely dominate the catwalks for a while to come - after all, fashion plays on fantasies and desires, and is at its best when it presents beauty which appears unattainable.

No particular type

At least one fashion hopeful is trying to find the middle ground. Aspiring designer Michael Sonntag gained practical experience with Kenzo and Givenchy in Paris while he studied.

Sonntag does not design clothes in skeletal sizes - or "kids' sizes," as they're called. He said finds it "gross" to put skinny models up on the catwalk. He prefers broad cuts, flowing fabric and muted colors and his designs should fit loosely, but also be chic.

So, what does he look for? "I like it when they look friendly, and they should fit some of the standard sizes since my designs are made for them, but I'm not set on any particular type."

Author: Susanne von Schenck (als)
Editor: Kate Bowen