Solidarity's price

Every papal pilgrimage to the Holy Land begins in the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. There are biblical reasons for this: The river that divides Jordan from the modern state of Israel was where Jesus was baptized by John. And that was where, according to the gospels, he began his public ministry. The Jordanian authorities have developed the Christian pilgrimage site on their side of the river, and when war is not currently raging in some neighbouring territory, it is a major tourist attraction.

However, there are also political reasons for popes to visit Jordan. Under King Abdullah and his late father, King Hussein, this country has done more to promote dialogue between Christians and Muslims than any other Arab state.

When I met up with a journalist friend from the Jordanian Royal Institute for Interfaith Studies in a cafe in Amman's Old Quarter yesterday, he told me over a cup of tea: "I don't like the term 'Christian minority.' We are all Jordanians. Most Jordanians are Muslims, some Jordanians are Christians." I believe him - even if Jordan does not fulfill all the criteria for religious freedom that we cherish in Europe.

It is easy to be cynical about Jordan's claims to tolerance. Islamic extremism potentially threatens Hashemite rule, the country can barely support its own population, it lacks natural resources - even water is a scarce commodity - and the country is heavily dependent on Western aid.

But I am struck by the sincerity of people like my friend. He's currently organizing an educational program for schoolchildren and students, which aims to promote tolerance among young people by informing them about other religions.

Enacting the 'Amman Message'

Ten years ago, Islamic scholars from Jordan made an unparalleled contribution to interfaith dialogue by issuing the famous "Amman Message." It asserts that Islam is "a message of tolerance … a message of brotherhood and humanity … accepting of others, and honoring all human beings." Pope Francis did well to come to Jordan and accept those outstretched hands of friendship.

His visit has also focused the world's attention on the plight of the 1 million Syrian refugees here - and Amman's struggle to cope with them. Zaatari, in north Jordan, is the second-largest refugee camp in the world. More than 100,000 people are being housed there, in a camp originally intended for 5,000. It has become the fourth-biggest town in Jordan, and costs some 350,000 euros a day to run.

Jordan is often praised for its hospitality. But it is not sufficient for Europeans to offer praise. 2.5 million people have fled Syria in the past three years, and more are fleeing every day. The burden on Jordan and Turkey is crippling. If Europeans welcome Amman's "message of brotherhood," they should also step up to the plate. We are fond of questioning the sincerity of other nations. This is an occasion for us to question our own.

John Berwick is a religious affairs correspondent for Deutsche Welle.